Friday, December 7, 2012

Final Crit Time!

To mark the end of the semester, our last class meeting on Wednesday will take the form of a group critique--with Painting II-- of everyone’s body of work from this semester.  You will all put up you own work for the group to discuss in turn.  Much of your work we will have already seen, of course, and as such I imagine that most of the discussion will be directed toward The Final Project and other work we have yet to see.
In addition to discussing painting, our final critique will also be a POTLUCK DINNER!  That means that everyone has signed up to bring a dish to pass, and we’ll eat and drink while discussing art.  What could possibly make a better afternoon?  If you for some reason missed class last week and you didn’t sign up for a food category, bring something anyway.  If you have a culinary specialty, we’d love to taste it!

Project Checklist (bring these paintings)
1.       Still-life
2.       Landscape
3.       Self portrait
4.       Abstract (Ab-Ex class)
5.       Abstract (hard-edge home)
6.       Figure (from in class)
7.       Open Final

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Final Project!

Final Painting

You are to make a painting of any subject or genre for your final outside of class assignment.  Your painting may be any size appropriate for the subject/approach, and on a non-commercially produced support.    This is your capstone project, and therefore more important than your other projects. 

This painting is to be done outside of class, and it is due at final critique.

Helpful hints: 
--Choose a subject with color!

--Take some time to research some artists that might specialize in whatever genre you choose.  Whatever the genre, do some research!

--Make sure your painting is formally strong.  That is, make sure it is visually balanced, has interesting surface qualities, interesting visual rhyming scheme, etc.

Wednesday, November 7, 2012

Abstract Paintings: both in class and at home


Abstract Painting Assignment         ART 130       
Stevenson, professor

At home: Due Wednesday, November 28
In class: Final crit

Abstract Painting

The making of a successful abstract painting is not as much creating or making a painting as it is finding it.  A successful abstract painting is said to be resolved.  The process of resolving a painting can be unexpectedly quick, or excruciatingly slow.  It demands brutal self honesty and patience, and it cannot be crammed.  An abstract painting has a mind of its own that must be coaxed, not forced.  For a painting to be resolved, EVERY element of it must mesh and balance well with EVERY OTHER element.  It must simply work.

Decide on the elements of painting that you are interested in—Color? Line? Shape? Ab-ex spontaneous marks? Minimalist hard edged marks?  Something else? 

You are to make two (2) abstract paintings: one that we will work on in class, and one that you will work on at home by yourself.  Build formal compositions that are not recognizable as any specific subjects, but that utilize the elements of painting in which you are interested.    Simply make paintings that are resolved AND that you like the way they look.

In –Class painting: you are to embrace the process and aesthetic of the Ab-Ex (Abstract Expressionist) action painters.  You are to use thick, spontaneous, “passionate” brush marks that resolve into a balanced, heavily worked painting.  Let the painting dictate each move. 

At-Home painting: you are to embrace the minimalist aesthetic and design a hard-edged abstract painting.  This painting will necessarily be much more planned out.  The paint surface will probably be much less layered and heavily worked.  You are to resolve the painting just like the in class one, but it will demand a lot more designing on your part.  DO NOT simply settle for the first solution that comes to mind.  Instead, find the best one.

Look at Modern and Contemporary Masters who painted abstractly: Jackson Pollack, Willem de Kooning, Hans Hoffmann, Brice Marden, Cy Twombley, Helen Frankenthaler, Franz Kline, Robert Motherwell, and one of my personal favorites, Richard Diebenkorn.  Remember that honesty is most important.  A painting either works or it doesn’t.  Keep working on your painting until it is resolved. Don’t call it finished if it’s not. No matter how much you might want an apple to be an orange, it’s still an apple.


Hints
Experiment.  Embrace accidents.  An abstract painter might have no idea what the final result will look like.  Try not to have an image in your head that you’re working toward.  Instead, let the painting decide what needs to happen next.

Wednesday, October 31, 2012

No Class this Week

So you obviously have a slight reprieve to your landscape due date.  We will critique the landscapes--and "finish" the self portraits-- next week.  Because you have 50 percent more time to work on them, I expect them to 50% better.  Air tight logic.

In all seriousness, I hope the post-Sandy aftermath finds you safe and sound, if a bit in the dark. Stay warm!

Thursday, October 18, 2012

Addendum to Landscape Painting Assignment: Making Space


Making Space
Making a painting that depicts realistic space—from very shallow space (a few inches deep) to infinite space (the sky)--demands that you understand the relatively standard and consistent way color behaves in space, though there are always exceptions.  There are several principles that should be understood to use color, or aspects of color, to create the illusion of space.  Another thing should also be understood: that color is purely relative.  Something could look very warm or intense against one color, and relatively cool or broken against another.  What are important are the color relationships, about which the following principles speak.
1.         Value contrast tends to diminish as space recedes.  The darkest darks are under the rocks in the foreground, and then tend to lighten as the space deepens, lowering the contrast between the lights and darks in the background.  However, the lights in the background don’t get much darker, though they do get duller and less intense.   
2.         The cleanest and most saturated color advances to the foreground, leaving the broken colors to recede.  That means that even the objects with not very intense local colors can be brought forward by keeping them clean, even though they aren’t very intense.  The trick is to make sure that there are no complimentary colors mixed into that less chromatic foreground.  Complimentary colors are what make muddy grays and cause whatever they are added to recede.  To make an otherwise strong color less intense but still keep it advancing, match the tone of that color with a mixture of black and white and mix in that gray.  Your color will therefore not change its hue or value, only its chroma, keeping it clean.  Conversely, to make a color recede, dirty it somewhat by mixing in its complement.
3.         Aerial perspective--As any color gets further into the distance, there is of course more atmosphere between that color and you, in effect creating an “air filter”.  As we all know, air is evaporated water, and water tends to have a blue cast.  This means that color relationships viewed through the atmospheric filter get bluer and cooler (as well as less intense) as they get further and further away.  That’s why the distant tree covered hills look decidedly blue gray against the much closer fields and trees.
4.         Layering--The layers of paint underneath profoundly affect the appearance of the top layer of paint.  The final color of the paint is never just the pigments that were mixed together for the top layer, but the sum of all the color underneath as well.  Obviously, a thin layer of yellow paint will look green if put on a black under layer, but even “opaque” paint will be affected by what’s underneath, however subtly.  Colors painted over surfaces that are darker than those colors (however slightly) will instantly cool down, causing them to recede.  This is the reason that a neutral dark wall demands several coats of white paint—the first layer always looks blue.  Conversely, colors painted over surfaces that are lighter will tend to warm up and become more luminous, causing them to advance.   Watercolors look so luminous because almost all of them have the white of the paper showing through.  You end up seeing much more than the color of the paint itself.  A painting over an imprematura cannot be matched exactly over white for this reason.

More notes about layering and luminosity
One of the many things that the Old Masters knew and used extensively was this notion of layering.   One of the beauties of paint—especially oil paint—is that it can become so intense and luminous.  Squeezing out a glob of ultramarine blue and spreading it around on white canvas will give you an immediate sense of what I mean.  That blue that you now see on the canvas cannot be mixed.  It cannot be manufactured.  Yes, that blue was made from a manufactured paint, but you are not looking at merely ultramarine blue.  Because the nature of ultramarine is so transparent, you are looking at the blue with the pure white underneath showing through.  You could squeeze color from that same tube onto a gray or black or even blue ground, but you will not be able to get a blue of even a similar intensity.  In the same way, any color with white showing through—a clean or broken color--is not simply the hue from your palette.  It’s a combination of that hue plus the white showing through.  Nor can you get the same color by putting together the hue and white by mixing—you’ll just get an opaque, much grayer color.  A combination of colors by layering is not the same as a combination by mixing.  Layering a transparent darker color over any lighter color (not just white) will almost invariably produce a more luminous color than mixing the two together.

One of the best examples is in the color raw umber.  By itself over white can produce a very rich, warm brown.  Mixing umber and white together, however makes an extremely neutral gray.  The difference is remarkable.  An example of layering over a color other than white to get a luminous color combo might be to glaze a red over yellow to get an intense orange.  You cannot mix the resulting orange even with the same pigments.  To get a rich gray you might consider layering transparent compliments instead of mixing them together.  This is a great way to create space by breaking color while keeping things rich and not muddy.

I mentioned that the Old Masters used layering and luminosity.  Examples can be seen in many of the 17th Century Dutch landscapes.  At that time they did not have access to the many different pigments and hues that we have to work with now, in the early 21st Century.  They might have only had red earth, green earth, Naples yellow, possibly azurite (any of the blues tended to be very expensive), black, and white.   To make up for this dearth of hue options, they had to use all the different aspects of each color to the greatest extent possible.  So in areas that you (as the painter) might want the foreground to come forward you will need to keep those areas clean and luminous.  Broken colors will, in turn, recede into space.  Some of the Dutch landscapes have used only red and green earth in the whole foreground, but by varying its transparency, color intensity, and “chromatic hygiene”(clean color) as well as flawless drawing these paintings seem to lay down beautifully.  Some even made “blue” sky from simply making a neutral gray from black and white, but since you see it against the warm luminous colors of the foreground it seems very blue.

Landscape Assignment


Due In two weeks: Oct. 31st

You are to make a landscape painting in oil that is at least 8x10 (that is: the short side may be no smaller than 8”, and the longer side may be no smaller than 10. You must make your own support.

This project is all about making space—or the illusion of it.  It’s also about controlling color relationships in terms of contrast and “chromatic hygiene” (high contrast advances low contrast recedes, and clean color advances and broken color recedes).

The subject may be of anything as long as it is (mostly) outside and includes close foreground and fairly deep space.  If you work outside from life (the preferred way of working for most landscape painters), you will find that the light will change--the sun tends to move if you hadn’t noticed--during the time you are working, so you have to paint quickly and plan to come back to the same spot at the same time for two or more days.  I’d suggest making either a sunny day painting or a cloudy day painting if you choose a daytime painting.  If you start a painting sunny and finish it cloudy you will drive yourself crazy and you’ll end up with a confusing result.  Trust me!

I strongly encourage you to choose a moment in your painting to be what the painting is about, and then make everything else in the painting merely support that moment.   Don’t just paint a scene.  Also, don’t make a “pretty” painting.  “Pretty” is bad. 

Hints

*Remember the different ways to create the illusion of space:
1-clean colors advance, and broken colors recede.
2-high contrast and hard edges advance, low contrast and soft edges         recede.
3-saturated colors advance, less intense colors recede

*Squint a lot.  This will force you to simplify. 

*Don’t forget your drawing skills.  Make sure your perspective works.

*Values tend to be very high outdoors.  The sun tends to eat away the darks and we find that they are relatively light (though still darker than the lights).  What at first glance seems like a value contrast might be more of an intensity contrast or temperature contrast.

*Research ideas from the old or contemporary masters—try to paint like them!

*Lastly, decide your approach BEFORE the painting begins, and stick to it (which of the four?)!



Monday, October 15, 2012

Self-Portraits this week!

So I mentioned this in class, but here's a reminder.  This week we are starting to work on our self portraits.  We will work from a mirror (no photos), and you must do your best to paint what you see--for the figure anyway.  The minimum size is 16 x 20, and of course you must have prepared it yourself.  We will work on your painting in class for the next three class periods, but after that you must finish it on your own so they will be finished by final critique.

Be thinking about how you want to project yourself to the world.  What will you be wearing?  Any props?  What background will you include?  Make it interesting!  Also, what painting approach will you use?  Which makes the most sense to you?

See you Wednesday!